Oh yeah? Well you're uhhhh ummm, your bars look ... Ah nevermind.

I machined it with a lathe. If you are interested in having one made for your project, let me know!

I'm excited to see what you come up with myself, Dom!

The wheelbase is long. I'd shorten it up a little bit next time, but I wanted stability for some extra-steep trails in the area (e.g. Eula trail). The extra stability is nice to have, but getting it around sharper corners takes more effort than with a shorter bike.

It almost looks like a caecilian - a legless amphibian. Where was the picture taken?

This is also another former Burly fixture.

I mean "bought" not "biught".

That's actually one of the old fixtures from Burly (a company that was sold and biught again, now run by a different owner) - I didn't build that one. But thanks for the compliments on my welding. Good luck in your graduate school endeavors!

I have a Lincoln Invertec V200T, which I used for this bike.

You just gotta be tough, my friend!

No, in all seriousness the bike is grounded by the stinger clamped to the downtube. That makes a much better ground than I do, so a person can safely handle the frame while welding. I have been shocked numerous times while welding, but its usually due to accidentally grounding the filler rod to the tip of the electrode. As long as a person avoids that, one should be fine welding this way.

Hello there,

I'll PM you with a response.

Thanks man!

Oh its SUPER important! Without it, the entire bike collapses into itself, causing a giant rift in the space time continuum. Basically the whole universe is destroyed without it.

No, there are a couple of reasons I did it that way:
1) overall symmetry - I thought it looked better with the amount above and the amount below the seat mast tubes roughly even
2) Since I bored out the seat tube to accommodate that seatpost size, there is a lip at the bottom of the seat tube, so the seat post can't be pushed down past the end of the seat tube. That keeps me from accidentally dropping the post into territory where it might interfere with the shock.

Ha! That's great. I appreciate the cleverness of your reference!

They are considered an arachnid. visit below for more information:

http://www.solpugid.com/Introduction.htm

Yep - clearance is such that the reservoir runs into the seat tube. I don't know why RM thought people wouldn't want to run coil shocks on Slayers - obviously they changed that the next year. And yes, me an my hands get along alright - most of the time anyway.

not that I found - the only reason I did it was because you can't mount a piggyback shock on this year of Slayer frames.

Turns out the extrusion might NOT be Bosch - more later.

The geometry is pretty much standard DJ fare. 69 degree seat tube, 69 degree head tube, 22" top tube, 14.5" seat tube (that could be shorter). Thanks for the input though!

It's like the Gary Larson Dobbie-O'-Matic!

Curt and I are planning another HT now as well - most likely even shorter chainstays, disc mounts, and maybe a few other goodies.

I do - You can check it out here: http://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listcomments/?threadid=61862

Ha! that thing paired with the XTR V-brake in back has some pretty stellar braking power.

Those are from Paragon Machine Works.

Thanks for the good words. I've been building frames for a little over a couple of years now (I've been welding for longer), and Curt (my buddy and co-builder) has been building frames for a few years. Some of the jigs we use are built by us, some are from other sources. We'd like to try selling some frames to people wanting both stock and custom frames built in the USA with quality materials by people who love to ride bikes. This particular one is a DJ/street bike with 16.25" chainstays. It rides great, and is perfect for riding on the street, trails, and jumps. Between the 2 of us, we've built the gamut, from DH full suspension, to XC bikes.

4130. Without the millscale, 4130 has a bright finish.

A little math, a rigid mitering setup, and a little experience.

Yep!

Thanks! It's all in the wrist.

Yep!

It's around 44 lbs as shown. The frame itself is around 11 lbs. That 888 is rediculously heavy, and the DB is a bit of an anchor as well. The frame can be lightened a bit - I plan on reducing the wall thickness on the swingarm, which I believe will be strong enough for DH use, but considerably lighter.

Decals are no match for the great GR!

For that, you should send me a PM and we can talk.

Gasket remover. It's a great way to go if you like super toxic chemicals for removing powdercoat.

There are a variety of places you can buy frame jigs. The cheapest is probably the Henry James jig. One of the better ones is the Anvil Supermaster jig. There many others as well, including Bringheli, Marchetti, and Sputnik. I could be persuaded to build one for someone as well (I'll post pictures of my new jig soon).